Endless Summer Fishing Trip Part 2: Fishing Bikini Atoll

By Peter Cottrell and Rowan Nairn

Contrary to what the name implies, Bikini Atoll is not the next venue for Temptation Island. This remote atoll does have other temptations though, namely the fish! The atoll is in fact so remote that the American armed forces decided to test 27 atomic bombs on the place.

Fifty years after this senseless destruction the atoll is in fact a veritable paradise as it has been untouched by human hands ever since. There fish are there too and just as numerous as before the blasts. Before you ask the question - no the fish do not have three eyes and two tails.

Situated in the mid pacific, Bikini is one of 26 atolls in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. This tiny republic covers 700 000 square miles of ocean but has only 70 square miles of actual land. Bikini atoll itself is in the North east corner of the republic and its closest neighbor, Rongelap, is a mere 100 miles away. The atoll consists of nine islands surrounding a 27 mile lagoon. Lagoon is a loose term as sailfish and other pelagics have been caught within its confines. There is a diverse array different fishing venues there with flats, reef and offshore fishing available.

Flying into the atoll gives one an immediate feel for the remoteness and the absolute vivid beauty of the region. Just before landing, you pass over numerous palm-covered islands and reefs sporting every colour of blue imaginable. At the airport we were greeted by Tim the manager of the lodge, who made our stay very comfortable which is a feat in itself given the logistics involved in keeping the camp up and running.

The major draw card of the atoll was the opportunity to catch Bonefish, Trevally and Dogtooth Tuna in one outing. Although the big Giant Trevally (GT's) were not around when we were there, we were provided with plenty of other species to keep us interested.

The first day found us patrolling some of the deep drop offs and channels leading into the lagoon. Within 5 minutes we were given an indication of the abundance of pelagics which lurk in the area when a school of Dorado were bought within casting range of the boat. Many multiple hook-ups with these fish ensued for the next couple of hours. In addition to the Dorado we also landed amongst others Yellowfin Tuna, Sierra Mackerel and Rainbow Runners. Having exhausted ourselves with these we decided it prudent to move to some of the flats. This would have been the typical start to any day at Bikini.

We had heard of the notoriously big Bonefish of Bikini before and were very envious when our two other fishing companions landed 'Bones' in the 10-12 pound range. We however had to content ourselves with numerous reef species including sizable Bluefin Trevally and Green Jobfish. The reefs and deeper drop-offs on the outside of these flats also provided spectacular action. We sometimes found ourselves casting into 300 ft of water! The most notable fish caught off here was a dogtooth tuna, which provided much excitement before being landed off the bricks.

A common occurrence was the loss of fish to sharks; this is hardly surprising considering Bikini has one of the highest densities of sharks in the world. A drive through the famed "shark pass" quickly revealed this when we had 40 Grey Reef Sharks trailing the boat! This area was definitely a no fish zone.

Our guide, Eddie a local Bikinian, was often required to politely suggest a retreat from the reefs when the tide rose sufficiently for these Sharks started moving over. A difficult proposition when the fishing is good.

A very eerie experience was fishing over the massive crater formed by the bravo blast, at 15 megatons it was the largest nuclear devise ever detonated. The blast was so big that three islands were completely vaporized. While this massive destruction is sad, it was pleasing to note the abundant birdlife on the remaining islands, a testament to the recuperating power of nature.

It was an absolute pleasure fishing this unique destination. According to Tim, at the time, we were only four of about fifty people ever to have fly fished the atoll. Given these stats it is safe to say the area is largely unexplored and there is immense potential for the enthusiastic fly angler both on and offshore. It is only a matter of time before large pelagics are landed with regularity from the shore here. Not to mention the Billfish...

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